At d turn of this century, George Kimble a European explorer had said this about Africa-
'The darkest thing about Africa has always been our ignorance of it.'
Even after a century, how true the fact remains!!! As a part of my new work profile, my first international visit was to the African continent. I was required to visit the three East African countries of Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda and promote our brands in these markets with the help of the respective teams we had in each country..
I did not know what to expect from Africa, so decided to go with an open mind.. On one hand we have the dismal picture created by everyday news about one or the other countries dealing with revolts, retributions, military coups, poverty, HIV or some such issue.. And on the other hand is the enchantment of seeing wild animals in African Safaris, living as free as the day they were created by the Lord!
I decided to do my own bit of research before I headed off to the three East African countries.. I studied their geographical locations, their political history, their culture and religion, their wild life safaris, the economic situation.. I thot I had covered it all but I sure was in for a big surprise!
My flight from Mumbai to Nairobi was as usual a late night/early morning flight and I spent most of my journey sleeping fitfully.. after passing thru the Immigration hurdles, I stepped under the African Sun for the first time in my life and immediately fell in love with the Nairobi sky! The sky had all shades and colors of clouds that I could imagine. It was a photographer's delight and I set about clicking even before I was out of my jet-lag!!
Nairobi city was beautiful.. well planned, architecturally exciting, profusely green with a fair sprinkling of flowering trees and had perfect weather. That is where my love affair with Africa started!
If the city was beautiful, the people were all well mannered and highly cultured and the pleasantly chilly weather meant everyone was dressed in their Sunday best almost every day of work. I checked into my hotel and passed out with exhaustion and sleep deprivation. The biggest surprise however was still awaiting me.. On my country manager's recommendation, I went to the mall adjacent to my hotel and immediately thought I had landed in the wrong country!!!
The mall was full of Asians and Indians even though it had a fair sprinkling of Africans, Europeans and Asians.. It seemed to me as if I was in one of the malls in Gurgaon instead of Nairobi!! I got to eat Indian food which was as yummy as I had had anywhere in India.. spoke to some of the local Indians (mostly 3rd n 4th generation Kenyan citizens now) whose parents had come here as laborers to build d railway network for Britishers..
Their stories reminded me of the movie 'Ghost and the Darkness' about two lions who had made the life of these immigrants hell in Tsavo!
Be that as it may, these African Indians are now an integral part of the society and are present in almost all African countries.. they speak the local language, cheer for the local teams and drink the local beer :) Some of them had never visited India in their life but wanted to go there at least once to get a taste and feel of the motherland.. They even have their own temples here and celebrate the festivals with more gusto than they would have probably done in India..
While traveling around the city I noticed these huge birds at most of the intersections. The first time I saw one of them fly I was reminded of the flying Dinosaur Archaeopteryx! Apparent;y, these humongous birds live happily at the busiest street ways perched on top of the trees building their nests and living their own lives with no one to bother them.. it was a fun sight to watch for sure..
Anyways the next day I got working and after a grueling week with Ruth and her fine team, it was time for some fun and that's when we headed towards Nairobi National Park.
The safari was a complete treat for the eyes.. Seeing d wild animals in their own land is such an out-of-d-world experience that one can never completely describe it in words.. You need to be there to feel it and trust me it will change whatever view of d world you had till that moment and you'll never be the same again!!
The week ended and I had to leave for Tanzania, the next stop in my journey.. flying above the Mount Kilimanjaro, I felt like a God in His chariot driven by white steeds blazing thru d sky above the tiny Earth mounds humans called Mountains :P
Tanzania was an assault to my senses which were still attuned to d soft tones of Nairobi!! It was more like a small town in India with lot of noise, traffic, congestion, buildings and the unbearable heat!.Dar Es Salaam has an awesome bay and some beaches to chill but these I found out later.. the first and the lasting impression left on me was of heat and dust..
There's a stark contrast here amongst the rich and the poor, richest living in palatial bungalows spanning acres, middle class (basically Indian merchants/Tanzanian businessmen) in their own buildings (most often named after Surat and Ahmedabad wid titles in Gujju!!) and the rest comprising largely of some literates and mostly unskilled labor..
But again I was pleasantly surprised with the services here.. My Airtel Kenya number refused to work here and Ashok, our distributor here took me directly to the Airtel BPO to sort the problem out.. and just as the guy there told us, it was done within 12 hours!! That kind of efficiency is yet to be seen wid Indian customer services :P
Did not get much opportunity to explore the city mainly because of lack of company but got a chance to unwind all by myself over the Easter weekend.. eating Indian food, watching MTV, going to the nearby Balaji temple and sleeping for 8-10 hours non stop!!
So I was ready to move on to my next destination which was Uganda.. The plane was a small one which took us first to Kilimanjaro and from there to Entebbe.. Now I have to admit this, I have never got completely accustomed to flyin in a small plane. I always get so woozy in these planes that I wonder how people who fly these planes do it! And to top it if you get a stop over I feel like just taking a bus or a train instead!!
Phew! Enuff of ranting about these oversized birds.. They did manage to drop me in perfectly gud shape at Entebbe and once again it was a pleasant feeling stepping out in the Sun here.. Its a beautiful small town banked on three sides by Lake Victoria which happens to b the largest lake in Africa..This thing is so damn huge that even from the plane you cant spot the other end of it.. It just goes on and on and on and is apparently visible from the space as well!
A short drive brought me to Kampala, the capital city.. The city is nice, spread out almost like a hill station.. there's a lot of greenery but less than that in Nairobi.. still it has some pleasant sights to offer such as the vast Lake front and numerous beaches..
Birds are prolific here and I spotted so many rare species that I had only ever seen on Discovery or Nat Geo!! Every morning a pair of Grey parakeets creates a ruckus outside my balcony and every evening they are replaced by three Stork babies :P
Had a pretty fulfilling week here with lot of work being accomplished.. people here are nice again but don't speak Swahili which put all my efforts to learn it in vain. Even though it is much less prosperous than Kenya or Tanzania, the safety here is much more with most shopping malls and Dance clubs open all through the night!!
The Matatoos (Mini-vans functioning as Taxis) and Boda-bodas (Motorcycle Taxis) are as ubiquitous here as in the other two countries..
The political situation though is slightly volatile and even as I moved out today I was informed by my country manager that there have been some protests and tear gas shelling with three people dying due to the bullets fired to disperse the crowd!!!
So we ended up covering some doctors around my hotel and came back at lunch time.. Another realization I have to mention is that Chapati and Pulao are as much a part of the East African cuisine now as it they are for us!! I even got a dish of Green grams more or less like our daal :)
Will hop onto a plane this Sunday and suffer a grueling Eight hours flight back to Mumbai!! Hope they dont expect me to join work as soon as I reach!!! These past three weeks have been immensely enlightening for me and have opened up my mind to many more new experiences and made me recognize that people of all different races/countries/continents are essentially the same..
I sum up my experience by quoting the most noted African American poet, Maya Angelou-
'For Africa to me... is more than a glamorous fact. It is a historical truth. No man can know where he is going unless he knows exactly where he has been and exactly how he arrived at his present place..'
Asante Sana Africa for this enriching experience!
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