Finding Parshuraam.. a journey of self-discovery!

So my second book is finally done.. what immense relief it is to be able to finally stop writing and let the editor do her job!

While my first book Vishwamitra was based more on secondary research of the scriptures, for the second one on Parshu-Raam, I decided to get down and as the proverb goes - get my hands dirty. My frantic research to find the avatar's birthplace had made me wander to Konkan and Himachal but neither of these professes to be his birth place. It was in fact through an obscure trekking article that I stumbled upon this place that am sharing with you.

For the uninitiated, my protagonist is the Sixth of the TEN major Avatars of Lord Vishnu known as - Dashavatar. As I have earlier written in my blog on mythology, these ten incarnations depict evolution on this planet {Read the complete article here - Darwins-evolution-in-Dashavtar}. 

The descriptions of Parshu-Raam represent that of the early man who was living in the forest in small communities, using simple tools like the Axe, Bow and arrow. Many people might not be aware that his father Yamdagni is credited with the discovery of slippers and umbrella - clearly an indication towards the new discoveries early man was making to make his life more comfortable!

There are numerous geographical places connected with the life of Parshu-Raam - the entire Konkan region in Maharashtra is dotted with his temples, he is associated with multiple places in the state of Kerala, he is supposed to have taken a dip at the Parshuraam Kund in Arunachal Pradesh, and the Renuka Lake in Himachal Pradesh still holds an annual fair where the son comes to meet his mother.

I find it fascinating to explore the actual places connected with these historical people (Yes for me they are historical even though they are considered a part of mythology). It gives me goosebumps to see the places mentioned in scriptures from millenia ago and imagine the life of my characters in them. My hunt for the Avatar's birthplace led me far away from all the above mentioned places and towards an unlikely and surprising location - a small nondescript hamlet in Madhya Pradesh called JANAPAV! 

Locations in India associated with Lord Parshu-Raam

I wasn't sure if this indeed was the place I was looking for but I decided to check it out. I had been planning to visit one of my college friends in Indore since a while and this place happened to be just about 35 Km away from the city. As luck would have it, while I was still thinking about when to schedule my trip, another friend mentioned her own travel to Indore over the upcoming weekend. All of a sudden I realized it was a sign God was giving me to do this trip!

So I quickly booked my tickets and landed at the Ahilyabai Holkar Airport early in the morning where my friend Nirmit who was gracious enough to pick me up. A short ride through the quiet early morning streets of Indore brought us to a Halwai shop where we packed Pohe, Ussal and Jalebi for breakfast. The moment I saw those I knew I would have to completely forget my dietary control that weekend. Indeed we were hogging throughout those two days thanks to the famous Indorian hospitality! 

After a short nap and a quick shower, we picked up the third friend and left for Janapav tracking the route through Google maps which showed it as a Shiva Temple just off the Mumbai-Agra Highway. We set off to the accompaniment of a slight drizzle, ready to explore this unheard of place that nevertheless, could have huge historical significance.

The drive through the highway was nice and leisurely and the landscape is dotted with many small hills. Since it had been raining in the past week, we were greeted with lush vistas and a pleasant breeze that made us roll down the windows and enjoy the journey. We stopped at couple of places for the mandatory Facebook and Instagram pictures which BTW I believe are the small joys of a long journey ;o)

Posers on the highway

River Chambal, famous for its erstwhile dacoit-infested areas is believed to begin at the hill of Janapav where we were headed. Remember Gabbar of Sholey and THE Phoolan Devi? Yes they used to live just a little ahead of here!

The turn towards Janapav comes on the left side of the highway if you are traveling from Indore and you have to be careful not to miss it. A well-paved road takes you through an increasing elevation surrounded by fields and shrubs in the lower portion and dense trees in the higher region till you reach a bridge over the aforementioned river. From here onwards, a steep incline begins and takes you to the top of the hill.

The signboard that told us we were in the right spot!

The first view of the Ashram at the top of the hill

To our surprise, it was thronging with pilgrims when we reached there! Considering the fact that no one I knew, including my friends from Indore, had known about this place, I was a little surprised on seeing so many people. But as we parked our SUV in the small parking space (which BTW also had a donkey and two calves parked there), I realized the reason why that was so.

We, the city-dwellers have lost touch with our roots to the extent that the only places that we know of are the ones promoted as tourists spots by various websites and tour-operators. Places like Janapav that are off the track very easily fall off the map and are increasingly being relegated to the small towners or those who have heard of them from their religious gurus and are genuinely there on a pilgrimage.

It is a shame since the real beauty of India is in such hidden places that have retained their original flavor. The view from the place is breathtaking. There are multiple ponds visible from the top of the hill and as far as the eye can see its only uninterrupted forests covering the entire range like a breathing, living carpet. And just when you start enjoying the serenity that the view provides, there come the langoors! 

Just like the monkeys in Jakhu Temple at Shimla and the Elephanta Island near Mumbai, this area has been claimed by Langoors who probably thrive in the forests around. They are pretty calm and friendly and I saw a lot of pilgrims, even children share their food with them and their babies. Seeing them reminded me of the Vanars from the Ramayan and I made a mental note to visit Kishkindha, the kingdom of Sugreev (Hampi) next.

Anyhow, a short walk from the parking area is a temple and an ashram that belonged to Yamdagni (Rishi Jamdagni as known by the locals) and is believed to be the place where Lord Parshu-Raam was born. It was an ecstatic feeling to find that we were indeed in the right place and to stand at the very spot where the Avatar was born!

Though the existing temple is small and even the Ashram is not very big, but I was delighted to see that a big temple dedicated to the avatar is coming up across the parking.

The small shrine dedicated to Parshu-Raam

The not-so-talkative elderly Pandit ji

The younger Pandit ji who corroborated the entire story of the Avatar for me

The new temple coming up at Janapav

For those who do not know, Parshu-Raam is recognized, and even dreaded, as the man who decimated the entire ruling class in a bygone age. His name was whispered in hushed tones by Kshatriya kings till not very long ago. You may have heard of him from your grandparents or seen a brief glimpse in some television mythological but seldom is his life story detailed to an extent that it could become an epic by itself.

I have made a sincere effort in my upcoming book NOT to harp about his later achievements that many of us are aware of, but to bring to readers the events from BEFORE his birth that slowly but surely led this simple Brahmin boy to become the legend that fate forced him to become.

The time spent at Janapav was therefore extremely valuable for my research and gave me an understanding of the formative years of my protagonist. The lush green vistas of the hill-side gave me an insight into what kind of life the Avatar would have had growing up in the region as well as a setting for the major events that shook his life. I have woven the story around this place in a way that you would hopefully be transported back to the ancient times of Treta-Yug when this god-incarnate is supposed to have caused a major upheaval in the Indian society.

Besides his well-known deeds, Parshu-Raam also finds mention in the Mahabharat as the guru of Kuru patriarch Bhishma as well as the ill-fated Karna. Since Parshu-Raam was opposed to Kshatriyas, Karna had to lie about his identity in order to receive martial training from him, a subterfuge that ultimately led Karna to be cursed to forget the very knowledge he had acquired when he needed it the most.

Like his own grand-uncle Vishwamitra, Parshu-Raam also makes an appearance in the grand epic of Ramayan as well although briefly. When Shri Raam breaks Shiva’s bow in the Swayamvar for Sita’s hand, Parshu-Raam arrives at the scene like a storm and challenges the prince for a duel. As far as I am aware, this is the only instance where two different incarnations of Lord Vishnu have come face-to-face as adversaries! It also brings to fore the conflict between the way of life that early man was living and the way that was adopted in the years to come by the more civilized man.

In Kerala, Parshu-Raam is believed to have imparted similar training to Swami Ayyappa, the lord of Shabrimala, and developed the martial art of Kalaripayattu along with Rishi Agastya. His influence though is not restricted to great personalities of the past. He is still believed to reside on earth, awaiting the arrival of Kalki, the tenth avatar of Lord Vishnu, who will receive training in the martial knowledge that Parshu-Raam has perfected in order to help the final incarnation of this yuga fulfill his purpose! 

The mission of Parshu-Raam’s life is to help humanity find its way whenever it gets lost and the search for his birthplace has certainly helped me find my own way! I am a Man on a Mission and my aim is to never stop exploring the hidden gems of India and bringing out stories of such inspiring men from our history.

It is said that the best journeys are those that bring you back home.. come home to your roots and visit this place at least once in your lifetime.

Come home... to The Legend of Parshu-Raam!

Available at the below links
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Amazon International - http://amzn.to/2kbziGE
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Khajuraho - the Jewel of Indian Architecture

Okay peeps am back!

Those of you who know me know the reason of my absence from this favorite blog of mine but for those who don't, well was caught up first with my Mythology blog and then research and exploration for my book VISHWAMITRA! Now that I am spending a rare Sunday at home, it is the right time to share with you some experiences from all the travel I have been doing!

It was a cloudy day when my friend called me and told me he was planning a trip to Khajuraho with some friends and if I wished to join. Knowing my interest in exploring all things related to Indian history he knew what my reply was gonna be and I jumped onto the plan like a dying man clutching a straw for I had always been fascinated by the enigma of Khajuraho.

I remembered a half-forgotten story from childhood that had enchanted me with its sheer beauty. It was about the Moon-god Chandra falling in love with a mortal woman on Earth and watching her every night with a longing he could not resist. One fine day he came down in the form of a human and introduced himself to the lovely lady who herself was mesmerized by his beauty.

The two spent many a night together in a grove of Date-palms by a small pond and in time the lady gave birth to a son as radiant as the moon itself. Chandra blessed him to become the  progenitor of a new race and thus was born the Chandela Dynasty. To commemorate the union of his parents, the boy, who grew up to become a king, installed two golden date-palms at the entrance of his city giving it the name we know it with today and his successors commissioned the beautiful temples of Khajuraho.

It was time to see the actual landmarks related to the fable of my childhood and I was not gonna miss the opportunity! Unfortunately, going to Khajuraho directly from Mumbai is a royal pain in the you-know-what and we decided to take the route through Delhi. A short 2 hours flight to Delhi followed by an overnight journey on one of the two decent trains running the broad-gauge brings you to the quaint station of the tourist city which is itself shaped like a temple.

Khajuraho Railway Station

We hopped into our cab and took the short drive to Taj Chandela where we were gonna be holed up for the weekend. Nice grounds and very courteous staff helped us feel comfortable right away and we availed an early check-in to make most of the day. As soon as we were done with the mandatory morning ablutions we changed and rushed to the temple complex. 

Foyer of the Taj Chandela

The hotel, like most other big hotels in the town, is located on the straight road that leads right upto the temple complex. It is quite convenient to borrow bicycles to ride the short distance to the temples but since there weren't enough of those we hopped into our cab and drove there. 

The first glimpse of the temples was quite mesmerizing and we got down next to a small pond filled with water-lilies and geese. The sun was bright yet not too overbearing and it was altogether a pleasant beginning to the day and I wondered if this was the same pond where Chandra and the mortal woman who gave birth to a dynasty used to frolic in.

Moving ahead we came to a quaint little market-place. The town of Khajuraho essentially exists around the temple complex and is quite basic in its infrastructure. The main market exists bang opposite the Western group of temples that are by far the most well-preserved of all the existing ones. It is said that for centuries the western temples were covered under thick forests hence escaped vandalism and defilement by invaders. Though they were frequented by devotees in great numbers especially around the festival of Shivratri, it was only in 1830 that they caught the fancy of a British surveyor who made their existence public to the western world.

Khajuraho layout map

Since these are the best preserved it is customary to start the tour from here but trust me IF you do that you shall never be able to enjoy the other temples! Start with the Matangeshwar Temple, which is the only living temple (as in, where prayers take place even today) and take blessings of the massive lingam there to kickstart your tour but then my suggestion would be to head to the Jain Temples before others and I'll tell you the reason why.

The first thing that comes to anyone's mind on hearing the name is the world-famous erotic sculptures and rightly so.. for these are exquisite works of art in yellow and pink sandstone crafted by brilliant artists of a thousand years ago with such perfection that one can almost make out the expressions on the face of the rock figurines. Even the Jain temples are not bereft of these and due to their relatively smaller structure, should serve as the perfect introduction to Khajuraho's beauty for a novice.

Jain Temples, Khajuraho

The erotic art actually covers just about 10% of the entire Khajuraho temple group but still garners the maximum eyeballs. Built between 950 and 1100 CE, the entire extended complex was supposed to have 85 temples spread over 20 sq. km but courtesy the invasions from west-Asia, today only 22 remain out of which the Western group of temples is the most remarkably preserved specimen. 

The temples follow traditional North-Indian architecture called the Nagara style that sees the temple as a reflection of the Mount Meru, the abode of the Hindu gods and all except one face East such that the first rays of the rising Sun bathe the deity in a golden light.

Architectural elements of Khajuraho temples

As we headed towards the Western complex we took the services of a guide. Trust me, you wouldn't enjoy the experience without having someone knowledgeable to guide you through the maze of sculptures and their proper understanding so stop trying to save money and hire a good guide! You can find multi-lingual guides that can take care of an entire mixed group and are fluent with many European languages. For a solo tourist an automated audio-guide should do the trick.

It was quite sunny and hot by the time we reached the main site and the first temple you see as you enter is the Lakshmana Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu with a massive Varah facing the temple in the manner in which Shiva Temples have a Nandi facing them. For those who do not know, Varah is one of the incarnations of Lord Vishnu, one that saved a drowning Earth. {If you wish to know more about the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu and their scientific meaning you can check out this link - Evolution in Dashavatar}.

The one thing that amazed me the most was its incredible symmetry and massive yet perfect proportions! The entire structure rests on a humongous platform that is symbolically supported by kneeling elephants and presents a very pretty sight.

As I mentioned earlier, just about 10% of the sculptures in Khajuraho deal with eroticism while the rest show people in the market, soldiers going to war, traders, kings, horsemen, camel-riders, women applying make-up, taking care of children, playing with pets - in short, the stuff an average day in the life of a citizen of Chandela Kingdom in the 10th century. Gods, demons, soldiers, kings, nymphs, monsters and animals all vie for attention on theses beautifully sculpted monuments!

The same pattern is followed in the other temples the biggest of which is the Kandariya Mahadev Temple dedicated to the patron deity of Chandelas -  Lord Shiv and we see on the temple exterior people going about their daily lives in a variety of ways.

Our guide could tell us the significance of each and every noteworthy sculpture and showed the distinctive features to identify each god - Shiva has a head-dress of matted locks and in most sculptures would be holding a trident with Nandi sitting at his feet; Vishnu would be in the four-handed avatar with chakra and other paraphernalia alone or along with Lakshmi looking adoringly at his face; Brahma was the bearded guy with two auxiliary heads showing above his shoulders and was not to be confused with the other bearded guy Agni who had a single head. Anyone who knows a little about mythology would appreciate the details just mentioned above.

Kandariya Mahadev Temple

The most eye-catching sculptures however, even more than those of the deities, are of gorgeous women - human as well as celestial - shown in a variety of moods and one can only marvel at the dexterity of the artisans who have painstakingly carved out each lift of the eyebrow, each bead of the necklace and each fold of the diaphanous clothing to make them look so gorgeous!

Click on each picture to see the amazing details!

 

Acts of Love are as much a part of daily life as is haggling with a merchant for the best price or taking care of children. But one thing the sculptures make abundantly clear is how liberal our society was even a 1000 years back! Besides the usual Maithuna or love-making couples, there are orgies as well as sexual deviations of all kinds showing that human desires haven't changed much even in a thousand years.

One of the most enlightening sculptures was the depiction of Lord Vishnu in the middle with a heterosexual and homosexual couples on either side of Him - Talk about equal rights for LGBT!

Lord Vishnu flanked on two sides by a heterosexual and same-sex couple each

A sexual orgy from a 1000 years ago

A lot has been written about the real significance of having these sculptures on a temple and people have come up with explanations ranging from presence of Tantrik sects to the temples originally being devoted to Kama-deva, the God-of-Love but I got the best reply from the priest in the temple who brought my attention to one significant detail - 'the OUTER walls of Khajuraho temples portray every single thing that humans indulge in but the INTERIOR only contains idols of the deities'.

Getting the point? The real significance of these sculptures is to remind us that when we enter the temple, we ought to leave the three principles of Dharma (Daily conduct), Artha (Monetary transactions) and Kaam (Love and Lust), followed in our daily life outside since the moment you step inside, only one goal remains, that of Moksh or Nirvana.

It is only when you leave behind the attachments and trappings of the outer world depicted on the exterior that you can appreciate the value of spiritual pursuits and become eligible to enter the Inner Sanctum or the Garbha-griha of the temple where Lord awaits His devotee. And the best glimpse of it I found in the only west-facing temple of Khajuraho - the Chatur-bhuj Temple.

Chatur-bhuj Temple

The significance of the idol lies in its complexity for it is a mix of Hari-Har and Krishna! Half of the head-gear of the deity is made of matted locks and serpents along with a crescent moon representing Shiva while the other half is the jeweled crown of Vishnu! The three surviving hands hold Lord Vishnu's weapons while the fourth was supposed to have held the flute of Krishna. The arrangement of feet also shows the typical stance of Krishna while he plays the flute. As far as I know, it is the ONLY composite idol of the three deities together and deserves much more importance than it currently receives!

As the Sun started its journey towards the western horizon, we took our blessings from this divine creation and left marveling at the perseverance of the ancient artisans and their skill in bringing to life the yearnings of the heart. Perhaps that is the reason that the small cross-section near our hotel had an ode dedicated to these unknown sculptors whose names are lost in the mists of time yet their work remains for the world to admire with awe...

I feel lucky to have witnessed the ancient glory of India in such magnificently preserved temples and would urge every art enthusiast to give it a dekko. If nothing, just give it a visit to understand how glorious and free ancient Indian society was. The day-time spectacle is followed by a beautiful light and sound show in the night with voice over in the impressive baritone of Mr. Amitabh Bacchan. It is a must-visit as are two amazing waterfalls - one about 20 and other 35 kms each from the town. 

Location of Raneh Falls and Panna Tiger Reserve

Both can be covered on the next day along with Panna tiger reserve and Diamond mines and the ride can be arranged with the help of any local auto-wallah at a reasonable price - ours charged just Rs. 1000 for covering all the spots besides acting as a guide!

Raneh Waterfalls

Panna Tiger Reserve

Pandav Falls in Panna

Trust me just over a weekend you shall be able to refresh yourself physically, mentally and spiritually and come back with a sense of amazement at the rich natural and cultural beauty of India in general and Bundelkhand especially..  Hope you enjoy the journey :)

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Ayubowan Sri Lanka

So there I was, in an Airbus A320, flying over the emerald Indian ocean on a relatively less time consuming journey to a historic land from a different time - I was going to Lanka..

Lanka, where palaces were made of pure gold; where Kuber, the Lord-of-wealth himself established a kingdom of unimaginable riches; wealth whose lust drove his half-brother Ravan into planning a coup and usurp the throne..

The witnes to one of the fiercest battles in history resulting in annihilation of the entire nexus of evil by Lord Rama in a previous age.. while flying over the Indian Ocean, I could almost imagine the terror that Sitaji must have felt, flying for the first time in the Pushpak Vimaan!!

When I was first asked to visit Lanka, I knew it would be a great adventure.. of course there was a lot of work to be done but the amateur historian in me would not have missed  the chance to visit one of the most important places in the history of our culture at any cost..

The short two and a half hour flight dropped me at the Bandarnaike Airport in the early hours of the morning where I was picked up by one of our partners in SL. The hour's drive to Colombo was quite re-ensuring and the city seemed to be a decent place to spend a week in.. There has been a lot of damage to the country in the fight for the Tamil Elam but it was heartening to see signs of progress and opening up of economy everywhere..

The city landscape is changing and is set for yet another makeover pretty soon; the population is manageable and does not put a drain on the resources; the air is clean and the beaches quite inviting. Indeed I saw droves of tourists from Middle-East and Europe lining the shores. Indians and Chinese form a major chunk of visitors to the islnd nation and you get a mixed crowd at most good hotels.

Workwise the visit was quite fruitful as our partners have done a great job of establishing our brands in the country. It was actually a pleasure working with most people from the team which comprises of a dedicated and diligent bunch of guys..

I could enjoy Colombo more this time thanks to my German friend Gustavo meeting whom was quite literally a blessing for me! Thanks a lot buddy for taking me around the city and introducing me to the delightful eateries spread all over the city :o)

Sri Lanka offers so many possibilities for the tourists.. there are mountains and hill-stations as well as beaches and temples to entice all sections of the traveling populace.. There are 8 world-heritage sites in this tiny little island (!) and a rich dose of history and culture to capture your imagination. 

The country has an abundance of forests and caves and ancient ruins with some impressive cave-paintings and Buddhist relics thrown in to complete the picture. This time I visited the southern provinces of the country, and it was a completely different feel from the cool mountains of the central regions.

The beaches in the South are especially pretty with clean sand and clear blue water. with the waves of the Indian Ocean lapping up the Lankan shores, it just creates a supremely relaxing environment around.. From the hill-stations of Kandy and Nuwara Eliya to the beaches of Mirissa and Unawatuna, there's a lot to keep you occupied. There are plenty of National Parks and abundant opportunity to spot animals in the wild especially the Asian Elephant and my favorite place was the Elephant Orphanage on the way to Kandy..

 

I also discovered a place almost on the southern edge of the island which is supposed to have formed from a fallen piece of the mountain that the legendary monkey-god Hanuman had carried from the Himalayas to Lanka when he couldn't locate the herb to revive Lakshman on it!!!

The hillock of Rumassala figures prominently in this legend. The Prince’s life could be saved only if certain herbs could be fetched from the Himalayas. Speed was of high essence and hence Hanuman insted of wasting time looking for the herbs, decided to uproot the entire mountain and take it along with him to Lanka!!

Shri Rama. Lakshman and Sita with Hanuman at their feet

Hanuman lifting the mountain

The rock Hanuman left behind

When it was time for him to return Mount Gandhmadan back to its original location, he heaved and picked it up dislodging a huge chunk in the process which fell at the place known as Rumassala.. even today, the beach next to it is called Unawatuna which derives from ‘Onna-wetuna’ (There, it fell).

There are fruit groves in Rumassala which, only those travellers who genuinely lose their way, would come upon. Among precious herbs, in the Rumassala region, recording to folk-lore, is Kalu-nika, a medical plant with life-giving properties.Today, there exists a Buddhist Peace Pagoda at the place at the entrance to which is the statue of Hanuman caarrying the mountain in his hand :o)

 Peace Pagoda at Rumassala

It is interesting to note in this context, that, when Arthur C. Clarke, one of my favorite authors, had first come to Sri Lanka, he had made Unawatuna his first home.

The mystery associated with the Rumassala area, may, in all probability, have intrigued him. Apparently, he has also stated that, this region does not come within the magnetic field that envelops the whole earth and that the exhausted geo-stationary satellites end up high above this place around Unawatuna, and keep on milling above it.

Myth or fact, Sri Lanka offers you a host of opportunities to unwind and immerse yourself in the aromas of history and culture and rejuvenates you to help you cope up with the usual grind back home..

Add to it the fascination we Indians have to unearth the linkages with the legend of Ramayana, it offers a fascinating journey down memory lane reminding you of stories narrated by Grandma over sleepy afternoons. I personally always wanted to see the 'Bridge-over-the-Sea' built by Lord Rama's Vanar entourage!! 

 Rama's Bridge/Sri Rama Setu

The Rama-Setu still links this 'Pearl of the Indian Ocean' to the Indian mainland like an umbilical cord.. Even the spread of Buddhism, which is the dominant religion in Sri Lanka, is the result of Emperor Ashoka's emmissaries being sent out to spread the faith outside Indian peninsula..

We should never sever this bond despite the politically motivated divisive rhetoric we tend to hear from time to time especially from certain sections of the Tamil polity. Now that terrorism has been effectively wiped out from the island, let's hope our relationship only gets better with the coming years..

Bohoma Istuti Sri Lanka for this refreshing trip :o)
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